Ok, you have produced two useable test strips/prints – one of Grade 2 and another of Grade 3 equivalents on VC paper (or with graded paper if you use that). Now the real creative process begins!
Take your two wet prints and look at them under the viewing light. Really study them carefully! Sometimes this takes a while to get it right. You’re looking for good blacks, good shadow detail, proper tonality and whites that are not blown out. Once you have determined which is the right print exposure time for each grade of paper you can now make a “pilot” print for each grade. I find it useful to write Grade 2 with its exposure time on the back of one print and Grade 3 with its exposure time on the other using a #2 pencil. Note: Throughout the printing process I always write what I am doing on the back of my papers so I won’t get confused or loose track of what I am doing. So should you! Now into the developer!
Again, look at both prints under the viewing light. I have two Zone VI Plexiglas print viewing stands that stand side by side and always are in the same spot in my sink. This arrangement allows me to compare prints in the same light. I find it very useful to look at the two prints next to each other and again study them VERY CAREFULLY. The goal is to pick what print/paper looks the best in terms of contrast and overall atmosphere and discard the one that doesn’t. You have to take your time!
Sometimes it’s obvious which grade is correct and which print is the one to toss. Other times after careful examination, I may discard one of them and then decide to make another pilot print using a higher contrast or lower contrast of the print grade I selected. For example, if I chose to stick with Grade 2 but think it is a little too contrasty I might try a Grade 1.75 equivalent. It is easy to figure this out doing some quick math and I adjust my color head filtration accordingly. If Grade 2 needs some additional contrast I might try a Grade 2.25 or 2.5 equivalent. Now I will make that print, develop it and examine that against the original Grade 2 print. If still not happy with the contrast, I can make another. Get it right here and you will not be unhappy latter! Once satisfied I discard the other pilot print(s) and I am ready to proceed knowing my proper exposure time and overall print contrast.
The final pilot print is your starting point to making a truly fine print. Given the effort you’ve put into it, it is likely better than most others finished product!
One final note here – I write everything I’ve done on my print recipe sheet. Then I cross out all the exposure/contrast combinations I didn’t like, leaving the one I chose to go forward with.
Now on to making the best print you can!
Stay safe,
Michael
Thanks – these are informative and I intend to change my sloppy methods and try your more rigorous and disciplined approach.
Dave,
Glad you find this helpful!
Best,
Michael
Have been printing for decades but only using VC for The past 10 years.
So, please explain why I need to know what grade paper I’m trying to mimic when dialing in filtration gives me desired results.
I’m confused?
Thanks – Steve Epstein
Steve,
Nice to hear from you again! As I mentioned in my Step 9 entry last week, I use variable contrast paper but still think in terms of paper grades after many years of using graded paper. This way of thinking works for me and establishes some guideposts I can use. Whatever works for you is great as long a you’re consistent and get the results you want!
Best,
Michael
Thanks – getting ready to print on 16×20 paper – never printed on anything this large- any pointers/ moving from tray to tray w/o creasing the print, for example.
Thanks
Hey Steve … 16×20! The largest print I’ve ever made was 11×14 … and only twice! For me I like a more intimate size. I hope they work out well for you.
Best,
Michael